NORTH-SIKKIM visit during the time of Super Cyclone FANI

It is a story about my NORTH-SIKKIM work visit during the time of Super Cyclone FANI.

“South India & Odisa ware put on alert since last week for what has been developing as India’s worst cyclonic storm science 2006. Kolkata was going to shut-down the airport later on tonight around 9 PM.”

– CNN

As far as I remember my mountain love started from this very place called SIKKIM. It was just after my board exam, I went to SIKKIM with my Uncle and my two dearest cousins. And that was the time when I experienced the mighty Himalaya for the first time. Though I had been to Nainital earlier, but that didn’t count since I was a kid then. After my first visit, I have been to SIKKIM many times to respond to the call of The Himalayas. Then, what is so special about this trip? Wait till the story ends…

Those who know me will also know that I do documentary photography as a freelance photographer. Around a week before the epic travel begins for me, I got a call from Delhi. I was asked to join a team of researchers from a reputed government institute for a study work in the North part of the SIKKIM state (North Sikkim). That also includes the study of the high plateau area where the Gurudongmar Lake is situated. The study also includes Shingba Rhododendron Sanctuary. Now, you can imagine how this trip was important to me.

09.30 AM | 3rd May 2019

I started my journey on 3rd May 2019. It was the day when Cyclone FANI hit India’s Eastern Coast as a grade 5 storm, wind gusting up to 205 km/hr. India Meteorological Department said the “extremely severe” cyclone in the Bay of Bengal hit the coastal state of Odisha around 8 a.m., with weather impacted across the Asian subcontinent. Around 1.2 million people were evacuated from low-lying areas of Odisha according to India’s National Disaster Response Force.

My family was worried about me and the trip. But, I told them it’s my work and my responsibility to finish it. And I was on my route to North Sikkim, unaware of what was waiting for me. I thought that once I reach Bagdogra, my journey will be smooth.

10.30 AM | 3rd May 2019

I reached Kolkata Airport on time, completed all the formalities, and eagerly waiting to fly out of Kolkata. I knew that, once we take off, we will surely reach our destination.

I was sitting beside a middle-aged couple, they were proudly talking about their son who is an international level swimmer and preparing for the next Olympics. They were talking to an old man sitting just beside me. It was an inspirational story of how a middle-class family sacrificed and fought with society to help their son to achieve his dream. Moved by the story, I had started to write a script in my head. But then suddenly one of the ground staff told that the flight took-off for Guwahati is coming back. People have started panicking and so did I.

I went to the desk to enquire about my flight. They told me that all the departures will be stopped from 4 PM. It gave me hope, as my flight was scheduled much earlier. I decided to get something to eat and got myself a sandwich. Till that point, there was no news about or flight and I was hopeful that I will reach Bagdogra.

Waiting in the area close to my departure gate, I saw on the display board says all the flights were getting delayed for an hour or two. Mine was delayed too. But, still, I was hopeful. Passengers of a Bangalore flight started questioning the airline stuff. It was becoming a caucus and people were getting restless. My flight was delayed for another 45min. I was then thinking about the importance of my work and the beautiful North Sikkim.

And then the news came, they were closing all operations of the airport much earlier due to security reasons. Though there was an apprehension at my end that this could happen. But, I was hopeful that I will make it. 

Once announced, everyone was running to get their checked-in baggage. While collecting my bags, I got the canceled stamp on my boarding pass. I think this was one of the rarest incidents of one’s travel experience. After getting my bag and information about the return policies I came out of the Airport at around 3 PM.

Now the second phase of my journey begins.

03.15 PM | 3rd May 2019

When I came out of the airport, I was really puzzled and worried. Hope you can understand the situation. I called my team and told them about the situation, they were in Gangtok. They were supposed to reach Lachen the next day. Since the fight got canceled and I lost one day, the only option left for me is to reach Lachen directly.

I decided to cancel the trip, took a taxi, and within a few minutes, I was on my way back home.  The wind started blowing but there was no sign of the storm. Again I come back to the drawing board. I decided to give it a last try and reach Siliguri by road. Called few transporters and came to know that there were still a few buses scheduled for departure that evening. I booked a seal for myself and came back home. But, Kolkata to Siliguri is just one part. I have to reach Lachen (North Sikkim) the next day.

04.15 PM | 3rd May 2019

I reached home and told my family about the plan. They were worried and wanted me to drop the plan.  But, my wife understands me and the ‘keeda’ (Bug) inside me. She was really supportive as always. I called one of my deep ‘assets’ in Gangtok and we came up with a plan to reach Lachen the next day. But it was going to be a very long journey. I was mentally prepared for it. After some quick meal, I started the journey again. But, this time I was going to the bus terminal, Esplanade.

07.50 PM | 3rd May 2019

After reaching the terminal I found my bus, and put my trolley bag in the luggage area. Now I don’t remember why I was carrying a trolley bag instead of my backpack. I was lucky to get a window seat but it was the second row from the behind. But, I was happy and decided to sleep as soon as the bus hits the highway. I was all set and the bus finally started moving.

Only after a few miles, I noticed a group of friends traveling beside me. They were around five of them traveling together. Initially, I thought they were a group of salespersons heading towards their respective markets. I knew I have to travel the entire next day and was stuck to the plan of taking a good nap.

But, one of the members of that group who was sitting just next to me started interacting. And I came to know that they were coming from Nasik. They were going for the Goecha La trek and they have also missed their flight due to the cyclone. That was the common ground and we just got connected. Most of them are charted accountant from Maharashtra. We were sharing stories, discussing political situations in our states, and many other stories. Suddenly I became a part of their team.

07.00 AM | 4th May 2019

The next morning when we reached Siliguri, we exchanged numbers and took some photos for memory. We said goodbye to each other and headed for our journey. I used the attached washroom of the petrol pump where the bus dropped us.

Now, my next objective is to reach Singtam, a small town near Gangtok.  Singtam was around 81KM from Siliguri. I got myself into a shared cab for the next leg of my journey. As I was carrying the camera equipment, I managed to get the two front seats for myself. The cab was waiting for more passengers. I was losing time. I knew the roads towards Lachen are not in very good condition and it will be very difficult to drive in the dark. The cab started moving with me and around 10 other passengers who were all strangers to me. About two and a half-hour into the journey we reached Singtam. The cab dropped me near the bridge and I was waiting for my deep ‘asset’.

08.15 AM | 4th May 2019

After spending around 15Min waiting, I called him again. He said he has organized a car for me it will drop me at Lachen. He told me to cross the bridge and reach the Singtam market on the other side. He called me again and gave me the name of a small snack shop. I dragged my poor trolley bag through the crowded lanes and waited for another 15 to 20 Minutes. There was no sign of him or the car. Then suddenly he came from nowhere. I was meeting him after a long time. We had a cup of tea but there was no sign of the car. I was worried about the road and my commitment to reaching there on time. At this point in time I was feeling a bit impatient at this time.

09.00 AM | 4th May 2019

After around an hour later the car arrived. I knew this was going to be the most interesting and difficult part of this journey. It was a Mahindra Maxx not in very good condition. The health of the car added to my worry list. At that point in time I had no other option but to avail the same car. I loaded my things bid goodbye to D. K., my deep ‘asset’.

Finally, I am on the last leg of the journey. It will take another 6 hours before I reach my destination.  After a few kilometres, we were out of the small town of Singtam. Suddenly it started raining. But, I was pretty sure that it was not caused by Cyclone Fani but due to some local clouds. After a certain point, the rain stopped. We were under a clear blue sky, cool breeze and the sound of the Teesta River made the experience beautiful.

03.00 PM | 4th May 2019

It was around 3 PM, I was starving. We stopped at a small restaurant to have some quick lunch. I meet Mr.  Pradeep and his family, they were from Hyderabad.  The couple was traveling with their two kids. The little one was very sweet and quickly we became friends. We had lunch together and we quickly became a family. We took some photographs and played games together. She will be in my memories forever.

It was time; we had a long road ahead. We decided to travel together and started again. The road conditions were not good at all. Throughout the road the little princes made me play with her and the journey became smooth for me. My worries were gone.

North Sikkim is one of the places in this ecologically devastated planet where plastics are strictly prohibited. Before entering the region we had to through our plastic bottles in a designated place. After this place, the roads became rougher. The sun was going down, and suddenly it was dark. As we are gaining height, it was becoming colder.  We put our warm clothes on and decide not to stop anywhere before we reach our final destination.

09.30 PM | 4th May 2019

It was around 9 PM and we reached Lachen. At first sight, I realized that it’s a small sleepy hill town with many hotels and lodges. Lachen is the gateway to Gurudongmar Lake. It is one of the highest lakes in the world and in India, located at an altitude of 5,430 m (17,800 ft). Many tourists visit this place every year and this small town hosts them all. We dropped Mr. Praddep and his family at their place.

It was 9.30 PM when I reached my hotel. After around 35 Hrs. I reached my destination. After a small conversation with my team, I went straight to my bed and slept… just to wake up at 4 AM for our journey towards Gurudongmar Lake.  It was a journey of a lifetime like the one in which I traveled from Tata Nagar to Delhi on a truck. But that’s another story for another time…

“Aisehi Karwa Chaltajayega,

Aur Kahani Banti Jayegi.”

Please do have a look at my vlog on North Sikkim during CYCLONE FANI. Let me take you on a journey to The Gurudongmar Lake & the small mountain village of Lachen.